21 Cumberland Island.

It was quite unconcerned by our presence and continued to trot about snuffling through the leaves with its nose; a piglet in chain mail. Armadillos are common on Cumberland Island and appear to have full confidence in their armor. The famous wild horses are here too. They look just like regular horses.

Behind the sand dunes the island is more lush than you expect. There is a dark forest of live oaks whose writhing limbs are hung with Spanish moss and Tarzan vines. It is the sort of sinister forest Hansel and Gretel had to deal with.

Cumberland used to be Carnegie’s private island. He built a castle to entertain his friends. The family abandoned it in the nineteen twenties. The castle is now a romantic gothic ruin. The only guests are rattle snakes.